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The night features a chain of events that ends dramatically in vomiting and a family death, but let us focus for a moment longer on Aroon's dress. It belongs to a vast, shadowy wardrobe of fictional garments that have betrayed their owners. For every literary scene highlighting the transformative power of fashion – think Cinderella's dress and glass slippers, or Shakespeare's many gender swaps and disguises – there is another that focuses on the subtler, more self-conscious trials of an outfit that makes the wearer feel uncomfortable and ashamed. Most of these scenes take place in public settings, and a great number of them at parties. Much of the pain and deflation detailed here by Woolf lies in the gulf between the private pleasure of a garment and its public reception. How many of us have looked at ourselves in the mirror at home and felt delighted by a new outfit, only to have that joy punctured when we realise we are underdressed, overdressed, or somehow out of step with everyone else at an event? The feelings that result from these apparent 'fashion disasters' are awful and intimate: at once speaking to some of the deepest fears we hold about ourselves, and a symptom of the changing messages around what (and who) is considered fashionable and beautiful. If you successfully solved the above puzzle and are looking for other related puzzles from the same level then select any of the following:

Because polyester is basically plastic, it takes years to break down. Different synthetic fibres like polyester are often blended to make fabric, making them hard to separate. An extensive enquiry and 2019 report by the UK Parliament’s Environmental Audit Committee (EAC) led to a series of impressive recommendations – all of which the UK Government rejected. Giving new meaning to the phrase ‘fashion victim’, a 35-year-old Australian woman had to be cut out of a pair of skinny jeans after developing a condition called compartment syndrome. It’s not the first time someone has succumbed to a dangerous style trend: “They’ve always been around, since the Stone Ages,” says Summer Strevens, the author of Fashionably Fatal. “It’s when fashion is taken to an extreme; I call it vanity insanity.” Here are five of the deadliest fads in history.Tiny bits of polyester that shed from our clothes account for 85% of all human-made debris found on shorelines around the world. In 2017, Greenpeace even found microplastics in the waters of the Antarctic. 7. It takes around 10–20,000 litres of water to produce a kilo of cotton We may not see the end of fast fashion. I was reading this really interesting piece by David Chang, about the restaurant industry, and he said, What I think you’re going to see is that it’s the big chains that survive. I think H&M, LVMH [the luxury conglomerate, which does not operate fast fashion companies], and Zara—they’re going to be fine. It’s going to be smaller companies, or ones that were already teetering, that were putting into place turnaround plans…that won’t survive. If you talk about pure polyester, yes, we are close. But the problem is a lot of materials are mixed materials, it's a polyester blend with something else. And separating that has been an issue," Lee explained. Fast fashion has boomed on the availability of synthetic fibres. These fabrics may be cheap at the point of sale, but they form part of a petrochemical economy which is fueling run away climate change and pollution. In the year that the UK hosts COP 26, we need to see action from the government and industry to create a more sustainable fashion system.

Almost every piece of clothing we buy is made with some polyester, the data shows. Although the dataset is made up of mostly fast fashion retailers, it’s not just fast fashion that loves polyester. Lululemon joggers? Polyester, nylon and elastane. Gucci skirt? Polyester.

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This doesn’t mean eliminating the use of plastics in clothing entirely — but it does mean using it carefully. We can no longer use plastics to create poorly-made garments which are designed to be worn only a handful of times. Other materials, such as cotton and viscose, can also create environmental problems, so ultimately it is the scale of production that needs to change.” It’s a cliche to say that we can’t shop our way out of a climate catastrophe but it’s absolutely true,” said Pham, the professor at Pratt. “The popular emphasis on individuals knowing where their clothes are made and who made their clothes–as ways of buying ‘better’–obscures the reality that the problems with the global fashion industry aren’t individual bad brands that just need to be called out. The problems are structural and systemic,” she said. Why is there so much clothing now? What’s it made of and who made it all? And where does it all end up when it’s no longer wanted? The constant push for cheaper manufacturing traps skilled garment workers in extremely unsafe working conditions. Deadly fires frequently rip through clothing factories around the world. March 2020 alone saw 66 fires in factoriesacross the industry – that’s two per day.

It’s a shady thing that goes on because [brands] are trying to get the cheapest prices possible. Fast fashion is ridiculously, wrongly cheap. [If you look at] the price of eggs, ground beef, gasoline, a house, the price of a car, the price of gasoline during the Depression, it’s all gone up since that. But the price of clothes is the same. And that’s because [these brands] keep paying less and less and less. ‘Can you do this for 10 cents? We want it for eight.” And then the only way they can do it is to find somebody who’s off the books, who’s got illegal workers, who can do it for five cents a piece. So then the middleman makes three cents, and he’s delivering it at eight cents. So what are H&M and Zara going to do? They’re going to just keep recycling stuff. They kind of tweak things all the time anyway. They have something in red? They make it in blue. And you know, what in the end do we mostly wear? T-shirts and jeans. At any given moment of the day, half the planet is wearing jeans. The first table you see when you walk into [Uniqlo or Zara] is jeans. That’s their bread and butter—it’s like when you walk into a luxury store and you see handbags. So they’ll just keep making jeans.A project called Dead White Man’s Clothes, after the name given to clothing exports from the West to Ghana, shows grimly the problem of fashion waste exports. So because of this very interdependent pyramid structure, this house of cards, that you’re talking about, what does reform of this system or radical change look like? Who could lead that? A 2022 Greenpeace report found massive fashion waste exports pouring into Kenya and Tanzania. In 2019 alone, 185,000 tonnes of second-hand clothes were imported into Kenya. In East Africa this second hand fashion is called “Mitumba”, a Kiswahili word meaning bale or bundle, because it is typically sold to retailers in bales. The oil industry has likely expected a hit on its profits coming, as much-needed climate action lowers the use of fossil fuels.

Fast Fashion’s Plastic Problem, a new report from the royal society for arts, manufactures and commerce (RSA), looks at some of the biggest online brands in ‘fast’ fashion: Asos, Boohoo, Missguided and PrettyLittleThing, analysing 10,000 recently-listed items, balanced across different product categories. The UK is the biggest exporter to Ghana. In fact, the UK produces the most clothing waste in Europe. And we’re the second largest used clothing exporter in the world, after the US. According to the seminal fast fashion documentary from 2015, The True Cost , over 90% of cotton is genetically modified (GM) – and because of this, can be sprayed with chemicals that kill insects and other pests. This means huge amounts of insects – a vital part of many ecosystems, including those that enable food production – are destroyed to feed our fashion frenzy.At the same time, production of fossil fuel-based clothing has continued and is projected to grow in the next two decades. Oil and gas companies continue to bet on petrochemical products like polyester to drive their future growth as demand from transportation declines. Traders and tailors in Accra’s Kantamanto market work hard to repurpose and sell the clothing that arrives on their shores. Arguably no consumer goods industry benefits from our throwaway culture more than fast fashion. That’s why buying carefully, and only what we need, can be a powerful act of environmentalism.

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